In Retrospect: Tiger Leaping Gorge

Tiger Leaping Gorge, the name alone evokes images of peril, mystique, and majesty. In early December 2003 when I was traipsing around southwestern China, I made sure to do the three-day hike through the gorge. It is not in a national park, nor is it a “protected area”. It is simply a place where people happen to live in a stunningly beautiful setting. Two main trails runs through the gorge: the low trail was being expanded to accommodate cars and tourist buses, the high trail, well trodden by villagers living in the area, remained the footpath that connects the little villages that cling on to the side of the steep mountain. The villages made it possible for people who had no camping gear to see the place. I hiked with a small backpack, ate and slept at guesthouses run by entrepreneurial villagers who took advantage of the fledgling tourist industry being developed around them.

The gorge, flanked by the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain on one side and the Haba Mountain on the other, is reputed to be among the deepest in the world. The jagged peaks of the mountains drop almost four thousand meters to meet at the bottom, a mere twenty meters apart at the narrowest, squeezing the upper Yangtze River through a series of cascades and rapids. I hiked the relatively short high trail with a few other backpackers, enjoyed the warm Naxi hospitality, and visited the bottom of the gorge where legend had it that a tiger had leapt across to safety while being chased by a hunter.

Tiger Leaping Gorge is located in northern Yunnan Province in southwestern China.

At the western end of the gorge, the upper Yangtze, also known as Jinsha Jiang or the “Golden Sand River”, flows quietly through relatively gentle terrain.

Upon entering the gorge on the High Trail, the jagged peaks of the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain was in view.

The Naxi House was a little guesthouse run by a local Naxi family. The Naxi people are the predominant ethnic minority group living in the area.

Maize and pumpkins being dried for the winter

Even the view from the toilet was spectacular.

Persimmons being dried in the sun

Higher up on the trail, the full length of the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain came into view.



I spent the night at the Tea Horse Guesthouse, where I was greeted by the owner with nuts, snacks, and a bong with locally harvested “herbs.”

The next morning, it took a long time for the sun to rise above the peaks across the gorge.

After breakfast, the incredibly hospitable Naxi Mama sent us off on our hike.

The people carved out terraces and lived off the land.

The trail wound its way around the mountain, veering precariously close to the edge at places.

Taking a break with Inbal, Keeley, and John

The setting sun covered the gorge in a dramatic show of light and shadows.

The daughter of the owner of Sean’s Guesthouse swept the courtyard clean early in the morning.

The peaks of the Haba Mountain towered over the little hamlet at the eastern end of the gorge.

Every inch of arable land had been converted into terrace fields.

The water buffalo took a break as his elderly owner looked on.

The height of the mountains allowed the sun to grace the bottom of the gorge for only a couple of hours a day.

The river roared through the narrowest part of the gorge.

The vista opened up again at the eastern end of the gorge.

Pre-Approved Straightjackets

Seeing how all of us are going to be doctors and earning an income in little more than three months, the university medical society organized a “Finance Evening 2008” tonight in case we don’t know what to do with all these money we’ll be making.

We gathered at the auditorium. A bunch of people in spiffy pin-striped suits took turn and gave us talks on the ins and outs of managing personal finances and services their companies offer. New words were being thrown around: salary packaging, superannuation, negative gearing, capital protected borrowing… I’ll have to look up these words later, but I did learn that, apparently, there are so many ways for these companies to minimize our taxes – and they are all legal. I’m listening, tell me more…

In the middle of their talks, almost every company told us about these pre-approved lines of credit up to $10,000 sitting there waiting for us as soon as we start working. And then there are car loans and 100% home loans. They are practically throwing money at us. I guess the credit crunch in the US has not come across the Pacific yet. Some may salivate at these “generous” offers, but, to me, each one of these pre-approved loans dangling in front of us looked like someone holding up a straightjacket, just waiting for us to turn around and put our arms through, then ziiiiiiip, we’re trapped for the next thirty years. I am already graduating with a bunch of mortgage-size student loans; the last thing I need is another loan on top of it, no matter how favorable the terms may appear to be.

So, no, I don’t need a new car, my little three-cylinder Daihatsu with 240,000 km on it will do just fine, until it dies. House? I’ll be okay living in my rented hovel as long as my net worth is in the red. No, I don’t need a line of credit either. Now, about that tax minimization…

The Beginning of the End

Yes, it’s the last rotation of medical school! But, sigh, it’s arguably also the toughest one – pediatrics. It’s like everything we learned in the last two years all rolled into one: internal medicine, surgery, psychiatry, emergency medicine, and all those subspecialties like nephrology, cardiology, radiology, and whatever-else-ology. I thought the O&G rotation was busy, but by the looks of it, this rotation is going to be full-on. Goodbye, weekends.

In Retrospect: Bagan

I had never heard of Bagan until I went to Myanmar (a.k.a. Burma) in February, 2004. It is THE place that gave Myanmar the nickname “The Land of Pagodas”. With thousands of temples and pagodas in various styles and sizes built between the 1000s and the 1200s while it was the capital of the Burmese Empire, Bagan exuded an air of otherworldliness. I stayed in Bagan for four days and explored on a rented bicycle the maze of dirt tracks connecting many of the pagodas scattered throughout the plains. It would take someone with a degree in archeology and Burmese history to fully understand the different styles and significance of the pagodas. Content with a simple description and explanation from my Lonely Planet guidebook for the major pagodas, I just enjoyed the artistry of the architecture and the relative isolation of the place. Pagoda fatigue notwithstanding, I relished the moments of watching sunsets while perched atop one of the taller pagodas, enjoying the delicious local food at roadside restaurants, and talking with the locals at juice stands and at the riverbank.

Sunrise from one of the smaller pagodas near my guesthouse

From the top of Shwesandaw, the countless pagodas dotting the now parched plains came into view. The lush vegetation would return when the monsoon came later in the year.

With very little vehicular traffic around, the trishaw was a cheap and efficient way for people to get around.

Vendors hawked souvenir at the more popular pagodas.

Shrines like this one, scaled to the appropriate size, are always found inside the pagodas.

This little kid sat with us at dinner. He was wearing thanaka on his face like many children and women in Myanmar.

This lady at our guesthouse made thanaka by grinding a log of thanaka wood on a piece of stone. Thanaka is worn as a cosmetic, sunscreen, and skin conditioner mostly by women and children.

With the cooling sensation of the freshly applied thanaka on my face and the drafty longyi tied around my hips, I was now ready for the oppressive heat of the dry season.



Lacquer ware was a famous local craft.

When parched from riding around the dry dirt tracks, a glass of freshly squeezed sugar cane juice was all you’d need.

Goats grazed in the shadows of the Ananda Temple.


Workmen repairing a sign in front of one of the pagodas


Ananda Temple, like many of others here, was still being used by the locals as a place of worship.


The afternoon sun streamed through a window inside the Ananda Temple.

This gilded statue of Buddha received many offerings from the locals.






Dinner consisted of rice with little dishes of delicious Burmese curries.

Sunsets were always magical in a setting like this.




The lifeline for much of Myanmar, the Irrawaddy River is a place where people do their daily bathing and washing.