In Retrospect: Tiger Leaping Gorge

Tiger Leaping Gorge, the name alone evokes images of peril, mystique, and majesty. In early December 2003 when I was traipsing around southwestern China, I made sure to do the three-day hike through the gorge. It is not in a national park, nor is it a “protected area”. It is simply a place where people happen to live in a stunningly beautiful setting. Two main trails runs through the gorge: the low trail was being expanded to accommodate cars and tourist buses, the high trail, well trodden by villagers living in the area, remained the footpath that connects the little villages that cling on to the side of the steep mountain. The villages made it possible for people who had no camping gear to see the place. I hiked with a small backpack, ate and slept at guesthouses run by entrepreneurial villagers who took advantage of the fledgling tourist industry being developed around them.

The gorge, flanked by the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain on one side and the Haba Mountain on the other, is reputed to be among the deepest in the world. The jagged peaks of the mountains drop almost four thousand meters to meet at the bottom, a mere twenty meters apart at the narrowest, squeezing the upper Yangtze River through a series of cascades and rapids. I hiked the relatively short high trail with a few other backpackers, enjoyed the warm Naxi hospitality, and visited the bottom of the gorge where legend had it that a tiger had leapt across to safety while being chased by a hunter.

Tiger Leaping Gorge is located in northern Yunnan Province in southwestern China.

At the western end of the gorge, the upper Yangtze, also known as Jinsha Jiang or the “Golden Sand River”, flows quietly through relatively gentle terrain.

Upon entering the gorge on the High Trail, the jagged peaks of the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain was in view.

The Naxi House was a little guesthouse run by a local Naxi family. The Naxi people are the predominant ethnic minority group living in the area.

Maize and pumpkins being dried for the winter

Even the view from the toilet was spectacular.

Persimmons being dried in the sun

Higher up on the trail, the full length of the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain came into view.



I spent the night at the Tea Horse Guesthouse, where I was greeted by the owner with nuts, snacks, and a bong with locally harvested “herbs.”

The next morning, it took a long time for the sun to rise above the peaks across the gorge.

After breakfast, the incredibly hospitable Naxi Mama sent us off on our hike.

The people carved out terraces and lived off the land.

The trail wound its way around the mountain, veering precariously close to the edge at places.

Taking a break with Inbal, Keeley, and John

The setting sun covered the gorge in a dramatic show of light and shadows.

The daughter of the owner of Sean’s Guesthouse swept the courtyard clean early in the morning.

The peaks of the Haba Mountain towered over the little hamlet at the eastern end of the gorge.

Every inch of arable land had been converted into terrace fields.

The water buffalo took a break as his elderly owner looked on.

The height of the mountains allowed the sun to grace the bottom of the gorge for only a couple of hours a day.

The river roared through the narrowest part of the gorge.

The vista opened up again at the eastern end of the gorge.