A White-Knuckling Experience

We are being rather ambitious today: going all the way to Hokitika one hundred kilometers away on the west coast. One factor working in our favor: it should be mostly downhill; one factor working against us: the constant headwind.

Clouds roll in as we go over Arthur's Pass

The ride out of the village to the actual Arthur’s Pass is an easy climb, mostly because our legs are still fresh at this point. A couple of kilometers after the Pass, a sign announces a 16% grade descent. Then, like a roller coaster that has just rounded the top of the first climb, my bike brings me hurtling down the steep descent. I stand up on the pedals, backside just off the seat, thighs squeezing the seat so my weight can help keep the balance, my back hunched down almost to the handlebar so my center of gravity is kept low, my hands giving the brakes ever-so-gentle squeezes to control the speed, my eyes looking about ten meters ahead and constantly scanning the road for potholes and cracks to avoid, and at the same time hoping cars won’t pass too close to me.

This photo doesn't do justice to the steepness of the road

With my whole body and mind concentrating on not getting myself killed, I am not looking at the amazing scenery of the Otira Gorge. So at a scenic lookout, we pull over to enjoy it a bit before getting back on the road for another kilometer of white-knuckling experience.

Looking back at Otira Gorge after the hair-raising descent

The rest of the way, we are buffeted by a constant and strong headwind, which makes the ride exhausting, even at downhill sections. The wind brings a few strong showers, but luckily we only catch a few drops. In no time, the only moisture in my shirt is from my own perspiration.

James crosses one of many one-lane bridges

zzzzz

At Kumara Junction, the road rounds a bend and the Tasman Sea comes into full view – we have finally arrived on the west coast! From here, we turn south and head towards the town of Hokitika. Although the headwind here is not as strong as that in the mountains, it is strong enough to make the last twenty kilometers of the day that much tougher.

fern, maybe silver fern, the symbol of NZ

Stop and smell the flowers

Suddenly, with no warning, my fuel gauge hits “empty” – I have hit the bonk – my legs feel like putty and all the energy has drained from me. We look for the first thing that gives a little protection from the wind, and find it next to the railroad tracks. We cook up some rice and canned beef stroganoff on the railroad ties – I know, not the smartest thing to do, but trains in this part of the country are far and few in between. In the unlikely event one does come, this stretch of the tracks is so straight, we would see it coming miles away.

track-side picnic

With my gas tank all filled up, we push the rest of the fifteen kilometers into Hokitika. Needing some creature comfort, we check into a hotel – a pub that also provides accommodation – for the night.

Tomorrow is probably going to be a rest day.

Stats:

Distance: 101.9 km
Time: 5h 15m
Max speed: 48.7 kmph
Average speed: 19.3 kmph
Odometer: 254.6 km