Over Hai Van Pass

A fisherman and his basket boat in the lagoon by Lang Co

Waking up with the increasing traffic noise from Highway 1 outside the hotel, I walk out to the balcony and look south at the direction of Ai Van Mountain. The peaks are hidden behind swirling mists and clouds. I guess it isn't going to clear out anytime soon, might as well just go for it. I pack up and start riding after a filling breakfast of pho.



One kilometer south of town, the road comes to a fork. To the left, vehicular traffic goes across the new bridge to the recently completed tunnel through the mountain. To the right, the old bridge goes across the lagoon and the road winds up the side of the mountain and over Hai Van Pass. Bikes are not allowed through the tunnel, which is just as well. To me, riding over Hai Van Pass has now become a rite of passage, a test of my physical and mental fortitude.

Another couple of kilometers later, at a sign declaring an 8% grade, the climb starts. I gear down to the lowest two gears, keep the wheels spinning, and stay on the seat. People on passing motorbikes fix curious stares at me, an occasional one gives me the thumbs up. Free from vehicular traffic save for a few that don't want to pay the toll to go through the tunnel, the road itself is now the only challenge before me.



Still spinning, I inch forward and upward at 7 to 12 kmph. Seeing the clouds the road disappears into higher up, I know rain would come sooner or later. Eventually it does, intensely but stops just as quickly as it started. I am wet from head to toe, but can't tell if it's the rain or my sweat. I stop, guzzle water, and push on.



One-and-half hours and ten kilometers later, with the old French fort to my left and drink stalls to my right, I arrive at the top of Hai Van Pass. On either side and five hundred meters below, waves from the South China Sea laps at the deserted beaches. The road that leads up to the pass now becomes a shiny ribbon twisting and turning around the misty pine-covered mountain. I take a deep breath in. The air is fresh and without the scent of car exhaust - I feel good, I feel like I can do anything.



After celebrating with a Snickers bar, I get back on my bike and start on the exhilarating coast back to sea level on the other side. For the next ten kilometers, I hardly have to touch the pedals. With the salty warm ocean breeze brushing past me and the almost-empty road to myself, I let the bike get up to 50 kmph in some places. This has got to be the most fun one can have on two wheels!



Back on flat roads, I pedal on, with frequent breaks of food, sugar cane juice, and my daily kilo of bananas. I ride through Da Nang, stop for some R&R on My Khe Beach, a.k.a. China Beach, then continue on under the hot afternoon sun to Hoi An.



Stats:
Distance: 74.5 km
Time: 4h 28m
Average speed: 16.6 kmph
Odometer: 598.4 km