Hoi An

I came to Hoi An last year. It was raining the entire time so I did not get to see much. The sunny and balmy weather today is a nice contrast to the gray and wet Hue. I am told that it was good timing on my part to have arrived yesterday. It had been raining for quite a few days before that and a couple of streets near the river were flooded. Today the water has receded, leaving a slippery coat of mud on the streets and sidewalks next to the river.

A far cry from its heyday as a major international port when the Portuguese and the Dutch ruled the high seas, Hoi An is now a living museum with a charming juxtaposition of the modern and the traditional. It is a pleasure to walk around the compact Old Town. The narrow streets, lined by houses in various stages of decay and restoration, are open only to motorbikes and bicycles. These houses now contain residences, restaurants, specialty shops, tailor shops, and boutiques. While many of these shops and restaurants cater to foreign tourists, the locals going about their daily activities in the streets and at the central market prevent the town from turning into a theme park.

Strolling past the central market, I come upon Lan's tailor shop. I had a couple of shirts and pants made here last year and I was very happy with what I got. Well, I am here, I think I will have a few more made. So I walk in and, to my surprise, Lan recognizes me. I am keenly aware that whatever I buy, I will have to haul all the way down to Saigon with me. With that in mind, I limit myself to two shirts and two pairs of pants. After she finishes measuring me, Lan tells me, "Every measurement is bigger by two centimeters compared to last year. Looks like you gained about five kilos." I beam proudly, "That's right, but it's a lot of hard work to gain those five kilos." Giving me a motherly disapproving look, Lan says, "I will give you extra fabric in the seams so you can let out the pants next year." What, does she expect me to balloon up to 100 kilos next year?

Used to dealing with customers who have short stops in town, Lan's tailor shop is able to have my clothes made and fitted within twenty four hours. After dinner, I walk over to the shop and pick up the finished product. After bidding them good bye, I stroll down the winding streets cast in a shade of yellow by the street lamps.

I hope the weather will be good tomorrow, because I will get on my bike again and head farther south, now with my panniers a couple of kilos heavier.

Lantern Shop

School Girls in Their White Ao Dai

Just Passing Through